小洋裝 1 號 (i)

織了一堆小帽子和小襪子之後,決定來挑戰更可愛的小洋裝。
原文織法在這裡:Easy Baby and Kids' Lacy Tank Dress Knitting Pattern
從小洋裝的編織過程又學到一些新技巧(開心~)。
我把編織重點整理如下,紅字修正了原文的錯誤,綠字是我的心得:



Easy Baby and Kids' Lacy Tank Dress Knitting Pattern
This is the sweetest little dress, with a lacy skirt and cute tank-style top. Its simple and delicate shape will look gorgeous on your favorite princess.
easy-baby-knitting-patterns-9.jpg
Size:
Age: 0-6 months [6-12 months, 2 years, 3 years]
Chest: 47 [53.5, 59, 65] cm
Length: 43 [45.5, 51, 53.5] cm
以下的數字若看到 a [b, c, d] 這樣的寫法,則 a 就是對應到 0-6 個月的寶寶(胸圍 47 cm、洋裝長度 43 cm);而 b 對應到 6-12 個月的寶寶...以此類推。若未特別註明 a [b, c, d] 這樣的寫法,就表示各種尺寸的織法都相同。

Needles:
US size 5 (3.75mm); US size 7 (4.5mm); 我從頭到尾都用六號針 :p
4 stitch holders; 我用髮夾替代,但是效果不佳 :p
tapestry needle. 一般縫衣針的針孔都太小,所以我使用十字繡針

Gauge:
24 stitches and 26 rows=4" (10cm) in stockinette stitch

dress.jpg ← 這就是小洋裝的版型尺寸(點擊放大)

 Ridged Feather Stitch  裙子的波浪織法
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: K1, *p2tog x 2 , *(yo, K1) x 3, yo, p2tog x 2; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains, K1.
原文有兩個星號,第二個應該刪去。
K = knit 下針; p2tog = purl 2 stitches together 兩針上針併一針 [影片教學]; yo = yarn over 空針。
怎麼知道原文的星號打錯了呢?驗算方法:下文提到起針 90 [101, 112, 123] 針,
應該是(1+ 11*N + 1, N=8, 9, 10, 11)這樣的公式。所以星號重覆的一段應該有 11 針。
p2tog x 2 , (yo, K1) x 3, yo, p2tog x 2
=>(1)x2+(1+1)x3+(1)+(1)x2 = 11

 Make the Dress  開始織洋裝啦
 Back  先織洋裝背面
With size 5 (3.75mm) needle cast on 90 [101, 112, 123] stitches.
Next row (right-side set-up row): Purl.

Change to size 7 (4.5mm) needles and work Ridged Feather Stitch pattern beginning with row 1 (purl row) until piece measures approximately 9" [9½", 10½", 11"] (23cm [24cm, 26.5cm, 28cm]) ending with row 3 (wrong side).

Next row (decrease row): K1, p2tog x 2, *P3, p2tog x 4; repeat from * until 1 stitch remains, K1. (58 [65, 72, 79] stitches)
原文針數不符。
驗算:假設頭尾各1針的下針是對的,則最後剩餘的針數應該是(1 + 7*N + 1, N=8, 9, 10, 11)這個公式,上面紅色段落的星號之後有七針,假設星號沒有標錯,則它之前的 p2tog x 2 就是多出來的,應刪除。但我後來仔細想想,其實是最後那個乘以四寫錯了,應該是乘以二(與前面的 p2tog x 2 對稱),然後把星號移到第一個 K1 之後。我想兩種織法應該都可以,反正重覆的部份應該是七針。

Work even in stockinette stitch (knit on right side, purl on wrong side) until piece measures 4" [4", 4½", 4½"] (10cm [10cm, 11.5cm, 11.5cm]) from beginning of stockinette stitch, ending with a wrong-side row.

 Shape Armhole  袖口部份
Note: In the following rows of armhole shaping, binding off of armhole edge stitches is worked on right-side and wrong-side rows. Decreases are worked on right-side rows only.
Right side (RS) 表示洋裝正面,wrong side (WS) 則是反面。這段文字乍看有點費解,下面有解說。

Continue in stockinette stitch, binding off 4 stitches at beginning of each armhole edge 0 [0, 1, 1] time(s). (58 [65, 64, 71] stitches)
Bind off (收針)要從一排的最初幾針開始,所以若是 each armgole edge 都要收針的話,就要正反面各織一排。以 0-6 個月的寶寶為例,因為是反覆 0 次,所以只是來回再各織一排 stockinette stitch(沒有減針);而若是 3 歲的寶寶,則要正面收四針之後,反面再收四針,才算完成這個動作,共減8針 (79 - 4x2 = 71)。

Bind off 3 stitches at beginning of each armhole edge 1 [2, 1, 2] time(s). (52 [53, 58, 59] stitches)
以 6-12 個月的寶寶為例,反覆兩次,所以共織了4排(正、反、正、反,每排各收 3 針),共減 12 針 (65 - 3x4 = 53) 。

Bind off 2 stitches at beginning of each armhole edge 1 [1, 2, 2] time(s). (48 [49, 50, 51] stitches)

Next right-side row: K1, SSK, knit across row to last 3 stitches, k2tog, K1. (46 [47, 48, 49] stitches)
SSK = Slip, Slip, Knit. [影片教學]
Next wrong-side row: Purl.
Repeat last 2 rows 3 [2, 1, 0] time(s) more. (40 [43, 46 49] stitches)

Work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 6½" [7", 7½", 8"] (16.5cm [18cm, 19cm, 20.5cm]) from beginning of stockinette stitch, ending with a wrong-side row.
*注意*等一下織洋裝正面的時候,前半的步驟到此為止是與背面相同的。

Next row (right side): Knit 13 [14, 15, 16] stitches, bind off next 14 [15, 16, 17] stitches, knit to end. (13 [14, 15, 16] stitches on each side of neck edge)

 Shape left side of neck bind-off (this will be the right side of neck as worn) 
Next row and all wrong-side rows: Purl.
Right-side rows: Bind off 3 stitches at neck edge 0 [0, 1, 1] time(s). (13 [14, 12, 13] stitches)
Right-side rows: Bind off 2 stitches at neck edge 1 [2, 1, 2] time(s) more. (11 [10, 10, 9] stitches)
Next right side row: K1, SSK, knit to end of row. (10 [9, 9, 8] stitches) 原文寫 work, 意義含糊。
Next row (wrong side): Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 2 [1, 1, 0] time(s) more. (8 stitches)

Work even until piece measures 17" [18", 20", 21"] (43cm [45.5cm, 51cm, 53.5cm]) from cast-on edge. Place 8 remaining shoulder stitches on holder.

 Shape second side of neck (this will be the left side of neck as worn) 
With wrong side facing, join new yarn and continue in stockinette stitch binding off 3 stitches at neck edge 0 [0, 1, 1] time(s), purl to end of row. (13 [12, 12, 13] stitches)
把前後兩片洋裝對齊,反面朝外(wrong side facing),然後加入新的線(join new yarn)開始織另一邊的肩帶。Join new yarn (換色或加線)的技巧請看 [影片教學]

Next row and all right-side rows: Knit.
Wrong-side rows: Bind off 2 stitches at neck edge 1 [2, 1, 2] time(s). (11 [10, 10, 9] stitches)
Next row (right side): Knit to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1. (10 [9, 9, 8] stitches)
Next row (wrong side): Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 2 [1, 1, 0] time(s) more. (8 stitches)

Work even until piece measures 17" [18", 20", 21"] (43cm [45.5cm, 51cm, 53.5cm]) from cast-on edge. Place 8 shoulder stitches on holder.

小洋裝 1 號 (ii) ← 我完成的小洋裝背面
(肩帶的部份因為沒有 stitch holder,胡亂用髮夾替代 :p)

 Front  呼!背面完成!要開始織洋裝正面了!
Follow instructions for back through armhole shaping until piece measures 5½" [6", 6½", 7"] (14cm [15cm, 16.5cm, 18cm]) from beginning of stockinette stitch, ending with a wrong-side row. (40 [43, 46, 49] stitches)
就是從頭開始,按照背面織法的 instruction,一直織到我寫的*注意*那個地方。

Next row (right side): Knit 16 [17, 18, 19] stitches, bind off 8 [9, 10, 11] stitches, knit to end of row. (16 [17, 18, 19] stitches each side of neck)

 Shape second side of neck (this will be the left side of neck as worn) 
Next row and all wrong-side rows: Purl.
Right-side rows: Bind off 3 stitches at neck edge 1 [1, 2, 2] time(s). (13 [14, 12, 13] stitches)
Right-side rows: Bind off 2 stitches at neck edge 1 [2, 1, 2] time(s). (11 [10, 10, 9] stitches)
Next right-side row: K1, SSK, knit to end of row. (10 [9, 9, 8] stitches)
Next row (wrong-side): Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 2 [1, 1, 0] time(s) more. (8 stitches)

Work even until piece measures 17" [18", 20", 21"] (43cm [45.5cm, 51cm, 53.5cm]) from cast-on edge. Place 8 shoulder stitches on holder.

 Shape Left Side of Neck (As Worn) 
Continue in stockinette stitch, with wrong side of work facing, join new yarn, bind off 3 stitches at neck edge 1 [1, 2, 2] time(s), purl to end of row. (13 [14, 12, 13] stitches)

All right-side rows: Knit.
Wrong-side rows: Bind off 2 stitches at neck edge 1 [2, 1, 2] time(s), purl to end of row. (10 [9, 9, 8] stitches) 錯啦!應該是 (11 [10, 10, 9] stitches)
Next right-side row: Knit to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1. (10 [9, 9, 8] stitches)
Next wrong-side row: Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows 2 [1, 1, 0] time(s) more. (8 stitches)

Work even until piece measures 17" [18", 20", 21"] (43cm [45.5cm, 51cm, 53.5cm]). Place 8 shoulder stitches on holder.

 Finishing 

最後終於要把前後兩片縫起來啦!順序一定要照說明的步驟,因為 pick up 的技巧是織直線的,所以照著步驟來才能順利將衣領和袖口鑲邊。我畫了一張示意圖如下:
dress_detail.jpg

With wrong sides facing (right sides together), seam left shoulder stitches of front and back together using 3-needle bind-off technique.
把前後兩片洋裝對齊,反面朝外,使用 3-needle bind-off 技巧[影片教學] 將左肩的部份縫起來。(這是示意圖上的 2. )
 Work Left Armhole Band  左袖口的鑲邊
With size 5 (3.75mm) needle and right side facing, pick up 64 [68, 76, 88] stitches around armhole edge starting at bottom of armhole of back piece.
Pick up 的技巧請見 [影片教學]
是否恰巧 64 針並沒有關係。
注意一定要從背面的袖口底端開始 pick up,才能把原本醜醜的縫邊藏到洋裝的裡面去。(示意圖 3. )


Knit 4 rows. Bind off loosely.
小洋裝 1 號 (iii)

 Work Neckband  領口的鑲邊
With size 5 (3.75mm) needle and right side facing, pick up 78 [84, 90, 96] stitches around neck edge starting at right shoulder of front piece.
由於正面的領口開得比背面大,所以 78 針並非平均分佈,大約是 44 : 34 的比例。(示意圖 4. )

Knit 4 rows. Bind off loosely.

With wrong sides facing (right sides together), seam right shoulder stitches of front and back together using 3-needle bind-off technique. Seam neckband edges together at right shoulder.
使用 3-needle bind-off 技巧,將左肩也縫起來(示意圖 5.)

 Work Right Armhole Band  右袖口的鑲邊
With size 5 (3.75mm) needle and right side facing, pick up same number of stitches as left armhole band, starting at bottom of armhole of front piece.
(示意圖 6.)

Knit 4 rows. Bind off loosely. With yarn threaded on tapestry needle sew side seams using mattress stitch. Weave in loose ends to wrong side of dress.
完成領口和袖口的鑲邊之後,就是把兩側縫起來啦!
Mattress stitch 的技巧請看 [影片教學]
鏘鏘!小洋裝完成!(示意圖 7.)



小洋裝 1 號 (iv) 小洋裝 1 號 (v)
▲ 這就是我最後的成品啦!寶寶還沒出生,只好掛在衣架上想像將來寶寶穿上的樣子... ^^

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